SAND bikepacking route Segment 3 – part 2
Our host Tony at the Vioolsdrift Lodge was true to his word and refused payment for our nights accommodation, meals and drinks – the kindness of strangers..
For our ‘rest’ day we had a short 20km ride down the river to a rafting camp which served great food but their basic ‘Chic Shacks’ were overrun by caterpillars and we regretted not camping.
From the camp we had three days ride north to the Richtersveld National Park and the forecast for day 3 was for 40km/hr westerlies and heavy rain. With slow travel on day 1 we knew we were unable to squeeze it into 2 days so we organised a lift from the small town of Eksteenfontein to the next town of Kuboes. Our driver was entertaining and had lots of local stories to tell as we drove the slow 80km on some shockingly bad road surfaces – we were happy to miss that section. We struggled with strong enough winds the next day getting to the park from a campsite beyond Kuboes.
Sendelsdrift is the Richtersveld National Park entrance town and fortunately there were park chalets where we hunkered down for 2 nights with 18 eggs amongst our shop up. We didn’t think we wanted 18 eggs but it was that or none.
The weather cleared for us to complete a 4 day circuit in the park. There are established campsites with ablutions, including cold showers, at most of their camps. Staying at the camps meant we needn’t carry much water during the day.
Our first 2 camps were beautiful sites by the Orange river. There were other campers the first night and we were invited to a second dinner with a South African couple – plenty of braiied meat and some salads. They kindly gave us homemade rusks and fudge for the onward journey. A troupe of camp monkeys whisked my bag of peanuts and raisins out of my feed pouch and made short work of devouring every morsel.
Next day Alan took the river track to the second camp and I took the longer route inland and then back to the river via a scenic sandy gorge. It was a short day for both of us so it felt like a wee holiday hanging out in the sun, swimming and reading that afternoon – no people or monkeys to distract us.
Day 3 packed a punch for its short 30km and 1000m height gain. The first 10km were spent spinning (or walking) fine gravel tracks uphill at the fast rate of just under 5km/hr. Thankfully the track improved and the scenery was spectacular. We ended up at a granite boulder wonderland at the campsite of Kokerboomklof and again we had it all to ourselves.
The tent flapped half the night and we dreaded the 60km haul out over 1200m height gain and into the wind. Fortunately we dropped to lower elevations and the winds were light, then we were sheltered for much of the steep rocky track to Helskloof Pass. People going the opposite way tried to talk us into going an easier way because of the ‘seriously rough descent’ from the pass. Maybe there was some ageism going on as we had no problem flying down the rough stuff.
Segment 3 is now over and it is onwards into Namibia for the last leg of our trip. Unlike South Africa they use graders on the roads in Namibia, but, there are much longer distances between services in this second least populated country (after Mongolia). Then there is the famed winds, a cyclist’s curse or blessing.
