SAND bikepacking route Segment 3 – part 1
We had a great couple of days in Springbok enjoying Petra’s hospitality before tackling the first half of the Richtersveld segment of the SAND route (https://bikepacking.com/routes/sand-s3/).
We were excited about the upcoming drier landscapes but we were intimidated by the description – especially the first 200km eastwards of corrugations and sand, with no water or food resupply options and likely easterly winds. For us the better option was to get a minibus to the turnoff to the town of Pella and work our way westwards following the returning route.
The winds were strong on the day we left Springbok but the forecast was for more favourable conditions. As we were driven east the increasingly desert landscape had us both a bit nervous about the upcoming biking.
It was a gentle introduction cycling the paved road down to Pella before starting up to Charlie’s Pass. In the late afternoon light we felt like we were in a red tinged Tajikistan landscape – so dry and beautiful. The strong wind that threatened our tent luckily died down after dark.
Next morning we cycled in wonder of the arid scenery down to the river. The Orange river is the longest river in South Africa flowing east 2400km. It starts in the land locked mountainous country of Lesotho and in these parts forms the border with Namibia. It is a crucial source of water for South Africa’s economy and is piped huge distances from the river. We would bike past 2 of its intakes over the next couple of days.
The other ‘industry’ along the river was goat farming. We passed numerous small shacks that would provide little protection in winter or the searing heat of summer. We are not sure what the goats ate as they roamed during the day before being penned at nights to protect from the mountain leopards and jackals.
After some interesting but rough, slow travel parallel to the river we climbed away from the river and passed the Klein Pella farm and their huge date palm plantation – sadly they only sold 10kg boxes of their premium Medjool dates. No dates for us but later that day we did get a beer and mandarins from a young couple in a 4WD who passed us on a strenuous sandy section of track.
We returned to the river the next day at the tiny town of Witbank for some more river travel. The slow but enjoyable 4WD track petered out and to avoid bashing thru prickly acacia we ignored the GPX line and followed tracks heading uphill away from the river, before traversing a scenic plateau and descending back down a soft sandy, and at times unrideable track. Time for a swim. We were also using the river water for drinking. It was very slightly silty but tasted fine – better than some of the towns chlorinated water or farm bore water we had drunk. If we are not camping by the river we have to load up with water – generally 4 litres each will do a night and days riding in these cooler winter temperatures.
We hit the jackpot that night stumbling on a great grassy river campsite complete with 4WD camping angels Vanessa and Charl who invited us to share a meal, with wine & beer. We did not take them up on the offer of a hot shower as the river swim was good enough.
Five days from the taxi drop off we hit the smooth blacktop of the N7 highway for the fast descent back to the Orange river for the 4th time and the border town of Vioolsdrif.
The super friendly owner at the Vioolsdrift Lodge was adamant we stay and eat for free – how could we refuse that offer. He appears to have a soft spot for foreigners. Vioolsdrift is the main crossing point to Namibia but of course our journey carries along the river and up to the Richtersfeld National Park.
(Note – we chose to miss out the other gnarly section 0f SAND 3 which included 2km of rocky hike-a-carry-a-bike and a 20% gradient climb over the Road to Hell Pass – maybe if we were 20 years younger.)
Enjoy the pics – it is getting harder to whittle down the number as the vistas keep ramping up..
