With time to spare before the Kunzum La opens we decided to do a loop above Kasa that would allow us to spend three nights at around 4300m. We ditched our camping gear and other miscellaneous and left town with just 2 paniers each.
It was a big climb above the Spiti valley alongside yet another stunning gorge. Part way up we met a roading crew laying new tarseal – a big fire heating the bitumen and then it was mixed with gravel in a Lorax type machine which presumably then spread it. The km or 2 so of new smooth black seal was lovely but soon we were on a gravel road again. After about 500m of climbing the land laid back to rolling land. Alan hitched a lift holding onto the trailer of a tractor/trailer unit till he realised it was easier, & safer, biking.
We arrived at the village of Langza early afternoon. These villages are the highest in India and in the case of the first 2 villages, a couple of households in the village will host homestays for tourists. As well as being able to drive/cycle between villages, there are organised treks which go from homestay to homestay and take local tracks in between. We paid approx $10 to $12 for a room and 3 meals. It is a nice way to get a feel for village life and share meals with local people and if they speak English learn more about life at 4300m.
They have a 7-8 month winter where they live on the warmer lower level of their houses, eat a non-veg diet (out of necessity) and sleep a lot. The women typically spend their time weaving rugs or knitting and the men rotate round the houses and read scriptures. Their is still school for the children. The animals are housed also in the lower level and stay within the confines of the pen or house.The village may get together once a month to socialise.
In the short months of summer it is all hands to the deck to get the barley, peas and potatoes planted for the short growing season and then the daily chore of weeding, mulching and micro management of the elaborate irragation ditches to make sure water gets to all plants.
From Langza we traversed to Comic. I walked down to the village of Hikkim whose claim to fame is the highest post office in the world. In my search for the post office I got sorrounded by a patrol from ITBP (Indo-Tibetan Border Police) who were keen to shoot me, luckily not with their rifles or semi automatics but their cell phones. Unfortunately the postmaster was not home so I was unable to send any letters.
It was a stunning ride to Demel from Comic – great mountain views and glimpses down the steep gorges that originate from this altitude. The road is not yet open to wheeled vehicles since winter and was pretty rough. We stopped to watch a flock of blue sheep (more like chamois) take off above us knocking rocks on the road ahead.
Demel was a bigger village and they have a rotation system for homestays. We enjoyed our evening there watching the constant stream of people coming to use the village satellite phone, as well as some great food. The food all round has been good: breakfast – tibetan bread, eggs, jam, packed lunch – similar to breakfast, dinner – momos, vegetable soup, rice, chappatis, vege stew, curd
The 900m descent back to the Spiti river was amazing – long, winding and scenic. Rest day and tomorrow we head off to try and cross the Kunzum la. The road is not officially open to vehicles but some one has crossed it on foot and we are optimistic we can get across with bikes..we shall see!
