Entering the fabled Zanskar

The huge peak of Kun dominates the down valley view from Rangdom but we missed the sunrise on it because of a veil of high cloud. The mornings fun was taking the shortcut to the Rangdom monastery 6km away across the river flats. We could ride most of the numerous river channel crossings even when they reached the bottom of our panniers. At this time of year the river is chocolate brown and runs high from snow melt, by the end of summer there would be substantially less water and by this afternoon this would not be the route to take.

The road up to the pass was kinder – more sand, less rocks and we enjoyed the numerous marmots popping in and out of their holes. More abounding mountain views. We stopped at the valley that Dave and I had walked up 25 years ago to the glaciated Chilung La and I reminisced about the indesicion as to which valley we needed to go up.

We reached the pass at lunchtime in anticipation of an afternoon marmot watching and relaxing amongst the high alpine scenery. Mid afternoon I took a short ride to look at the Darung Drung glacier on the down hill side of the pass and spied a more scenic and more sheltered campsite. There was some weather coming so we made the move just in time before the strong winds and rain hit. Luckily it was a short lived storm.

It was a stunning place to wake up in and the ride to the valley floor was spectacular. Despite being mostly downhill it was a slow journey down the valley, bouncing our way over the rocky surface. However each valley on our right hand side had glacier and mountain delights for us. There is many lifetimes of alpine adventures to be had here.

The wind was strong and fortunately on our backs most of the way to the large expanse where the Stod and Dodda rivers join to form the Zanskar river downstream from the town of Padum. In winter all rivers are frozen and the walk/ice skate up/down the Zanskar is one of the more unusual treks you can do in the world.

We had a blob out day and then a day exploring some of the close by attractions – the Kashe monastry and a nice waterfall. We spent time with 2 older cyclists, one at age 70 and the other his Belgium mate at 64 (and overcoming some serious health issues). Two inspirational and entertaining men!

At 1.30 am we got up for our shared taxi to Kargil – of course we didn’t start bouncing our way out of town till 3.30. The reason for the early start is to get across the snowfed side streams before they get too high. As it was our driver spent an hour helping a small car get through the worst one which was running high. The 12 hour journey was most unpleasant until we hit the paved road. We arrived in Kargil as large street marches were happening coninciding with the last Friday in Ramadam – generally anti Western sentiments were a feature of these marches.

Leaving Rangdum village on an overcast morning
Leaving Rangdum village on an overcast morning, Kun dominates the down valley view
Shortcut to the monastry proves interesting
Shortcut to the monastry proves interesting
Riding away from the monastry
Riding away from the monastry
Enjoying easier riding en route to the Pensi La
Enjoying easier riding en route to the Pensi La
Spectacular riding yet again
Spectacular riding yet again
Our friendly marmots keeping watch
Our friendly marmots keeping watch
View up to the Chilung La, memories from 25 years ago
View up to the Chilung La, memories from 25 years ago
Glaciated side valleys and distant mountains
Glaciated side valleys and distant mountains
The Pensi La
The Pensi La
Alan, Alan, Alan - no it's Jo, Jo, Jo (u-tube reference)
Alan, Alan, Alan – no it’s Jo, Jo, Jo (u-tube reference)
Sunset from Pensi la camp
Sunset from Pensi la camp, unknown peak above Darung Drung glacier
Packing up at Pensi La camp
Packing up at Pensi La camp
Man and machine!
Man and machine!
The stunning Darung Drung glacier (perhaps 2nd largest in India)
The stunning Darung Drung glacier (perhaps 2nd largest in India)
Views to head of Darung Drung glacier
Views to head of Darung Drung glacier
Side glacier and mountain 1
Side glacier and mountain 1
Side glacier and mountain 2
Side glacier and mountain 2
Side glacier and mountain 3!
Side glacier and mountain 3 – running our of expletives!
Finally down to permanent villages
Finally down to permanent villages
Almost at Padum  crossing river from Umasi La - how Dave and I arrived in the Zanskar 25 years ago
Almost at Padum crossing river from Umasi La – how Dave and I arrived in the Zanskar 25 years ago on foot
Hillslope above old Padum
Hillslope above the Zanskar basin
The old village of Padum
The old village of Padum
Looking down the Zanskar basin - Kasha monastry on the RH hill
Looking down the Zanskar basin – Kasha monastry on the LH hill
Kasha monastry buildings climbing up the hill
Kasha monastry buildings climbing up the hill
Monks at the monastry
Looking down on monks at the monastry
Monklets running down to school
Monklets running down to school
Arriving back in Kargil after a testing 12 hr taxi journey from Padum
Arriving back in Kargil after a testing 12 hr taxi journey from Padum